The ancient art of dyeing has evolved with time, driven by relentless curiosity, unyielding ambition, and the ever-present thirst for the novel and beauty. The dyes that once adorned the robes of emperors and the banners of conquerors now infiltrate our everyday lives. From the clothes we wear to the screens we gaze into, their invisible influence shapes our perceptions and experiences. In this short article, we explore the realms of both, Synthetic dyes and Eco -friendly dyes.

Dyes and pigments are colourants used in various applications, but they differ significantly in their properties, applications, and how they interact with the substrates they colour.

Dyes are soluble in the solvent and bond with the dyed material, forming strong chemical bondswith the substrate. These could be ionic, covalent or hydrogen types. The colours are more prone to fading when exposed to light, and are less durable in outdoor and harsh conditions.  However, dyes can produce vibrant and varied colours making them popular in textiles, leather and food coloring.

Pigments on the other hand are insoluble in the medium they are used with. They consist of finely ground particles suspended in a binder medium. Pigments do not form chemical bonds with the substrate; instead, they adhere to the surfaces through the binder. They are more durable when exposed to harsh outdoor conditions. Due to their particulate nature, they are generally less bright compared to dyes. These properties make pigments ideal for use in paints, coatings, inks, cosmetics and art supplies.

In India, the types of dyes used include Azo, Acid direct, Disperse, Reactive, Sulphur, Vat and Natural. Each type has unique properties and applications ranging from synthetic fabrics, textiles, leather, plastic, paper, etc. Natural dyes are used in food colouring agents and cosmetics.

The illustration below shows the trends in the Indian dyes market for over the past decade.  Increasing demand and Innovations in Dye chemistry have driven these rising trends.
 
India, being a large exporter of textiles and ready-made garments, sees a significant  Impact of dyes on fashion. There are around 800 manufacturers in India, with a few large players like Bodal Chemicals, Clariant Chemicals, Atul Chemicals, Aksharchem Ltd,  Kivi Industries, Colortex Industries and Jay Chemicals Ltd dominating the organized sector. The rest of the market is in the unorganized sector, which is highly fragmented. The Reactive Dyes segment holds the majority volume share, primarily catering to the textile sector. Anticipated growth in the dyes sector will be driven by a rise in population coupled with a higher GDP growth rate. The estimated growth in the dyes segment is around 6% CAGR.

However, challenges such as environmental concerns, cost constraints, and regulatory standards impact our efforts towards Sustainable fabric dyes. As a major exporter of textiles and apparel, India must constantly innovate to keep up with fashion trends using acceptable dyes and ingredients.  This scenario could lead to a spate of M&As in the future, particularly in the unorganized sector.  Further, there could be a lower consumption of  Synthetic dyes and a greater use of Eco-friendly dyes.

Dyes are like a narrative that is still being written. With new discoveries on the horizon, we glimpse at the essence of human creativity -- ever-evolving, ever colourful and forever intertwined with human sentiment.